Physical Characteristics of Textiles

A textile may look suitable for a product but feel wrong when it is used. A textured surface might be attractive on a cushion yet uncomfortable against the skin. Designers therefore consider texture, density and allergenic potential alongside the intended appearance, application and user.

Fibre type and fabric construction are different parts of this decision. Cotton is a natural fibre and polyester is a synthetic fibre; either can be used in fabrics with different constructions. Woven, knitted and non-woven describe how the fabric is formed, not what its fibres are made from.

Texture: what the surface looks and feels like

Texture is the surface character of a textile, perceived through sight and touch. Useful descriptions include smooth, rough, hairy, ribbed, looped and fluffy. Handle is broader: it describes how the whole fabric feels when handled or against the skin, including whether it feels soft, bulky or thin.

Texture depends on the fibres, the yarns, the fabric construction and any finishing treatment. Natural fibres have variations in their structure that can contribute to surface texture. Manufactured fibres can produce very smooth surfaces, but they can also be made into textured yarns and fabrics. Neither group has one fixed texture.

Short staple fibres, such as cotton and wool, produce yarns with projecting fibre ends. Continuous filament fibres, such as silk, can produce smoother yarns. Silk is the exception among natural fibres: it is a continuous filament rather than a staple fibre.

Compare cotton jersey used for T-shirts with cotton terrycloth used for towels. Both contain cotton, but their surfaces differ because their construction differs. Similarly, smooth nylon tricot for swimwear and nylon taffeta for umbrellas show that one synthetic fibre can be used in different fabrics.

Construction and yarn choice change the surface

In a woven fabric, yarns cross one another. Yarn size and the weave affect the surface, so a woven fabric need not be smooth. Novelty yarns can deliberately add texture: a slub yarn varies in thickness, bouclé has a curly character, and chenille has fibres projecting from a central core, giving a soft, fluffy feel.

In a knitted fabric, yarns form interlocking loops. These loops can create recognisable surface patterns, such as the ribs of an acrylic rib-knit jumper. A non-woven fabric is made directly from a web of fibres held together, for example by heat or adhesive, rather than from woven or knitted yarns. Its surface must still be assessed: the construction name alone does not establish how smooth or rough the finished material will be.

Blending fibres during spinning can alter texture and handle. Common combinations include polyester/cotton, wool/acrylic and silk/viscose. A mixed-fibre fabric instead combines different yarns during fabric construction, such as cotton warp yarns with polyester weft yarns. In both cases, assess the finished fabric rather than assuming it has all the advantages of each ingredient.

Density: distinguish the fibre from the fabric

Density means mass per unit volume. For equal volumes of solid fibre material, the higher-density material has more mass.

Typical fibre densities illustrate useful differences:

Nylon therefore has a lower fibre density than cotton. However, this does not mean every nylon fabric is lighter than every cotton fabric. A finished fabric also contains spaces between fibres and yarns, and its mass depends on its thickness and how much material is used.

Woven, knitted and non-woven textiles can all be made with different degrees of packing. A thick, open fabric and a thin, closely packed fabric should not be compared using thickness alone. When choosing a textile, consider both its fibre material and the actual fabric sample.

Allergenic potential: allergy is not the same as irritation

Allergenic potential is the possibility that a material will cause an allergic reaction in a susceptible person. This matters especially for products worn against the skin. An allergy involves the body's immune response to a substance; mechanical irritation can occur simply because a coarse surface rubs or prickles against the skin. Both can make a garment uncomfortable, but they are different problems.

Coarse fibres projecting from a wool fabric can cause itch or prickle without a wool allergy. Coarse nylon or polyester fibres can also irritate: the problem is not exclusive to natural fibres. A review of research found no credible evidence that wool itself is an allergen. Fibre coarseness and the finished fabric's texture are therefore more useful considerations than assuming that all wool is unsuitable for sensitive skin.

Allergic contact reactions to textile fibres themselves are rare. More commonly, clothing allergy is linked to dyes, finishing resins, glues or other chemical additives. For example, formaldehyde resins used to make fabrics wrinkle-resistant can cause allergic contact dermatitis in susceptible users. Contact dermatitis is skin inflammation that can produce redness, itching and scaling. Latex and rubber chemicals in elastic components can also cause reactions.

Assessing the complete textile for skin contact

Natural cotton and linen are often useful options for sensitive skin, particularly in light-coloured fabrics with fewer dyes and without unnecessary chemical finishes. However, natural origin is not a guarantee against allergy: a cotton shirt can still contain a dye or finishing resin to which its wearer is sensitive. Equally, polyester, nylon and acrylic are not automatically allergenic; they can be well tolerated, depending on their processing and the individual user.

Woven and knitted construction does not, by itself, determine allergenic potential. A smooth woven shirt and a soft knitted T-shirt must both be assessed for their fibres, dyes and finishes. Non-woven textiles require the same care: bonding adhesives or treatments may be relevant, and reactions to formaldehyde textile resins have been reported in non-woven masks. This does not mean that every non-woven textile contains those resins or causes allergy.

For a polyester/cotton blend or a mixed fabric with cotton warp and polyester weft yarns, consider all constituents and treatments, not just the most familiar fibre. Blending does not automatically remove an allergen. The designer should establish the intended user's known sensitivities and check relevant supplier information rather than judging suitability from softness alone. Do not deliberately expose someone to a suspected allergen as a classroom material test.

Reaching a justified material choice

Start with what the product needs. For a garment worn against the skin, a smooth, comfortable handle may matter more than a strongly textured appearance. For a decorative cushion, chenille's fluffy texture may be desirable. If low mass is important, lower fibre density can help, but the finished fabric's thickness and construction must also be considered.

A justified choice links the characteristic to its consequence, then acknowledges a limitation. For example, nylon's lower fibre density makes it worth considering where low mass is desirable, but the designer must compare actual fabrics before concluding that the nylon option will be lighter.

For a shirt intended for someone with a known allergy to a wrinkle-resistant finishing resin, avoiding that treatment is more important than choosing between cotton and polyester alone. An untreated, smooth fabric may be preferable for skin contact, although it may need more ironing. The conclusion should prioritise the user's needs while recognising the trade-off.